Welcome

Hi. I'm Juliana.  I've been in the SCA since I was born, having gone to my first event when I was two weeks old.  I have lived almos...

Thursday, August 1, 2024

The Road to Here

OKAY. So. The path of learning is not always straight or expected. Nor is blog posting, since I typed that first sentence intending to tell one story, and am now going to tell a different one. I was going to tell of the twists and turns my current project is taking, but I feel like maybe we should discuss how I got here first.  So grab a beverage and maybe a snack, and lemme tell you a bit of a story.

As I mentioned in my very first post, I have been in the SCA since I was born, and “have been doing embroidery in some form for almost 40 years”. That “almost” is an actual 40 years now, being as I started when I was 7, and am now 47. Math is fun!  My mom taught me cross stitch when I was 7 as a way to get me to sit still at events.  The sitting still part didn’t really work, but I did enjoy the stitching so that stuck.  I’m pretty sure my first project was stitching my name, and I seem to recall I finished J-u-d and maybe started the y but I’m pretty sure it got lost and I never finished it.  After that I tried various kits, but nothing was geared for kids so my mom tried to help me just do simple shapes and stuff.  I bought a few kits over the years, but being a "jump into the deep end and figure it out when I get there" kind of crafter, they were all above my skill level.  

Fast forward to my mid-twenties, I was back in the SCA, learning new embroidery stitches and practicing them but only for fun really.  Seam treatments (period or otherwise) were all the rage in the early to mid 2000s (AS 35-ish) and they weren't my fave, so I decided to teach myself blackwork instead, mostly using charts I found online, which may or may not have been historically accurate.  Or if the pattern was, the usage might not have been.  It was just for fun, or so I thought. 

My local group, the Barony of Westermark, was making some new pillows for its Baronial thrones.  It was decided that we would stitch the barony motto "Oh Westermark, your forests" in varying fonts and styles so that anyone who wanted to participate could do so, no matter their skill level going in.  The result was a set of very fitting "ransom note" style pillows.  This project gave me a chance to stretch my legs, so to speak, on new styles I'd not tried.  You can see the ones I did here. These were the first time I had done anything that was not counted work or stem stitch (which I technically learned in home ec in 6th grade, but never used until many years later). 

After the pillows, some life stuff happened and I took a bit of a break from the SCA. Next post will be how needlework pulled me back in after several years away.


Rose Pouch for Dagmar

Project: Rose Pouch

For: Dagmar the Red

Date: September 2022-April 2023

Stitch(es): German Brick Stitch

Materials: Planet Earth Silk on cotton hardanger cloth, lined with linen.  Drawstrings are the same silk as the embroidery.

Inspiration:  I charted all of the fill patterns in the rose myself, based on historical pieces.  I will do a more detailed post on this project as I did a lot of research , learned a lot of lessons, and took a LOT of progress pictures.  For now, here are links to the inspiration pieces:

Embroidery in the collection of the Art Institute Chicago.  According to the museum's website, the piece dates from 1300-1310.

https://nocache.www.artic.edu/artworks/62695/part-of-an-antependium-depicting-the-last-supper

(part of a) Wall hanging at the Met Cloisters in NYC from the late 14th century.

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/468750

The basket weave pattern is one I found online that claims to be charted from a period source but the poster could not remember/find what the source was.  While I cannot point to this particular basket weave pattern, the Art Institute piece linked above has a basket weave pattern used for filling so we know it was used in period.

Click "read more" for more photos.

Feather for Consort Bag

Project: Feather for Consort Bag

For: Prince Consort Hans

Date: Fall 2022

Stitch(es): Chain, Stem, Blanket, Satin

Materials:  Cotton DMC on linen

Inspiration: Hans being the Apex Murder Peacock of the West Kingdom.  The maker of the bag opened up the project for others to make peacock feathers to create an array of them on the bag. All the individual feathers were collaged into a haversack.

Click "read more" for a photo of the larger collage.

Napkins for Da’ud and Moira

Project:  Napkins for Da’ud and Moira

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  May – Aug 2022

Stitch(es):  Split, Chain, and Backstitch

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton in linen ground

Inspiration:  Heraldry and interests of the recipients

 

Click "read more" for more photos.

Masked Ball Masks

Something a little different...

Project: Masks for the Baroness’s Masked Ball with a “Danse Macabre” Theme

For: Myself (flames) and my boyfriend (skull).  I can't believe we didn't get a picture of us wearing them...

Date: Fall 2021

Stitch(es): Chain and Blanket

Materials: Felt, Organza ribbon, Cotton DMC, glue, paperboard mask blanks

Inspiration: It’s not a period inspiration, but the inspiration was actually both the “Masquerade” and “Don Juan Triumphant” scenes in Phantom of the Opera.  But skulls and flames are as old as time, so it worked.  Found the patterns on Etsy.

Click "read more" for more photos.

Brick Stitch Mask

Project:  Brick Stitch Mask

For:  Myself

Date:  August 2021

Stitch(es):  Brick

Materials:  Vineyard Merino wool on cotton Hardanger cloth

Inspiration:  Masks were required when The West began having in person events again in the fall of 2021.  I was making a new German dress and decided to make a brick stitch mask to carry on the theme.  Colors inspired by the Kingdom of the West and the Principality of the Mists. 

Pattern from a reliquary bag at the Collegiate Church of Soignies in Belgium.

http://balat.kikirpa.be/photo.php?objnr=10152670

Pattern charted by Master Richard Wymarc

https://www.wymarc.com/images/patterns/jpg/Y014B.png


Click "read more" for more photos (including one where I originally tried the mask in white before pivoting to black).

Pattern Darning

Project: Cuffs for German shirt

For: Myself

Date: Late Summer/Early Fall 2021

Stitch(es): Pattern Darning

Materials: Cotton DMC on linen

Inspiration: Fell down a rabbit hole of smocking that led to discovering pattern darning which led to “I must ty that!” so I did.  I did not keep good notes on where the pattern came from.


Click "read more" for more photos.

Bag of Doom II: The Orange Monstrosity

Project:  Princess Bag for Maggie

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  Spring 2019

Stitch(es):  Brick and Stem

Materials:  Planet Earth silk on cotton Hardanger cloth

Inspiration:  Floral side inspired by 14th century brick stitch book cushions at the V&A and the Kunstgewerbemuseum. 

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O318615/book-cushion/

http://www.doctorbeer.com/joyce/emb/westcush/westcush.htm

Pattern charted by Master Richard Wymarc

Dragon side inspired by recipient’s heraldry and favorite color.  No chart was used for this side.  The wyvern is documentable to the 14th century as well, as seen in the Tristan hanging from approximately 1370.

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O86303/the-tristan-hanging-hanging-unknown/

  

Click "read more" for more photos.

Bag of Doom

Project:  War Bag - Mists/Cynagua War

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  August 2018

Stitch(es):  Brick

Materials:  Vineyard Merino wool on evenweave linen ground

Inspiration:  14th Century brick stitch bag at the V&A

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O115592/bag-unknown/

Pattern charted by Master Richard Wymarc

https://www.wymarc.com/images/patterns/jpg/Y011A.png

 

Click "read more" for more photos.

Laurel/Pelican Patch

Project:  Laurel/Pelican Patch for coat (unfinished)

For:  Brocc of Alderden

Date:  July 2018

Stitch(es):  Satin and Chain

Materials:  Vineyard Merino wool on linen ground

Inspiration:  Cool image of a wreath I found made of Laurel leaves and Pelican feathers.  Colors inspired by nature.

Click "read more" for more photos.

Napkin for Ciar

Project:  Napkin for Ciar

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  Spring 2018

Stitch(es):  Stem, Chain, and Satin

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton in linen ground

Inspiration:  Ciar's interests


Click "read more" for more photos.

Napkins for Tuomas and Snorri

Project:  Napkins for Tuomas and Snorri

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  Fall 2017

Stitch(es):  Stem, Chain, and Satin

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton in linen ground

Inspiration:  Tuomas’s heraldry and history of living in Hawaii, Snorri’s love of raccoons.  Colors inspired by Tuomas’s heraldry, raccoons, and the colors of the Principality of the Mists.

Raccoon adapted from this knotwork fox:


 

Click "read more" for more photos.

Napkins for Alys and Balin

Project:  Napkins for Alys and Balin

For:  Auction Promissory

Date:  Fall 2017

Stitch(es):  Split

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton in linen ground

Inspiration:  Their initials done in knotwork style as requested by recipients

 

Click "read more" for more photos.

Napkins for Antonii and Helga

Project:  Napkins for Antonii and Helga

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  Fall 2016

Stitch(es):  Stem, Chain, and Split

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton in linen ground

Inspiration:  Helga’s heraldry, Antonii’s interests.  Images found on DeviantArt and used/adapted with permission.  Colors inspired by their heraldry and the colors of the Principality of the Mists.

 

Click "read more" for more photos.

War Bag

Project:  War Bag - Mists/Cynagua War

For:  Mists Needleworkers’ Guild service project

Date:  Jul – Sep 2016

Stitch(es):  Applique, Blanket

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton, wool yarn, wool felt

Inspiration:  The populace badges of the Principality of the Mists, the Principality of Cynagua, and Kingdom of the West.



Click "read more" for more photos. 

Ivone's Collar

Project:   Norse Collar

For:  Ivone Pons Lehr

Date:  Apr – Jun 2016

Stitch(es):  Chain

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton on cotton ground

Inspiration:  Spies, Nancy. Here Be Wyverns: Hundreds of Patterns Graphed from Medieval Sources, Arelate Studio, Jarretsville, MD, 2002, p. 150.

Design is said to be charted from an embroidered altar cloth from Germany in the 12th century, but I can find no primary sources for the artifact.

 

Click "read more" for more photos.

Napkins for Etaine

Project:  Napkins for Etaine

For:  Auction Promissory

Date:  Spring 2015

Stitch(es):  Split

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton in linen ground

Inspiration:  Recipient’s heraldry

 


Click "read more" for more photos.

Acorn Blackwork

Project:  Acorn Blackwork

For:  Westermark tax basket

Date:  September 2013

Stitch(es):  Holbein

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton on linen ground

Inspiration:  Pagano,Matheo. (1563). Trionfo Di Virtu. Libro Novo. Venezia: Matteo Pagano

specific image:  

 


Obadiah's Cuffs

Project:  Cuffs for a Norman tunic

For:  Obadiah the Obstreperous

Date:  Jan-Apr 2013

Stitch(es):  Stem and Split

Materials:  Soie d’Alger stranded silk on silk taffeta ground with freshwater pearls

Inspiration:  Cuffs were part of a larger project, fabric was provided to me with the design already on it.  Colors were provided to me as well but are from his heraldry and the West Kingdom colors.



Click "read more" for more photos.

Westermark Pillows

 

Project:  Misc. letters

For:  Westermark throne pillows

Date:  May 2007

Stitch(es):  Stem, Chain, Satin, and French knots

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton on linen ground

Inspiration:  Full project was the Westermark motto “Oh Westermark, your forests!” done in “ransom note” style.  Color choices were largely random.

 
Click "read more" for more photos.

 

Project:  Rose Napkin

For:  West Kingdom Needleworkers' Guild project

Date:  Spring 2007

Stitch(es):  Stem

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton on linen ground

Inspiration:  The Queen’s Rose of Ansteorra.  The guild did one for each kingdom.  Colors are matched to the kingdom heraldry.

Click "read more" for more photos.

Patch for Coat

Project:  Patch for coat

For:  West Kingdom Needleworkers' Guild/Kaaren Håkonsdotter

Date:  Spring 2007

Stitch(es):  Satin and Stem

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton on linen ground

Inspiration:  motif from Kaaren’s arms. 

Patch was part of a larger project, fabric was provided to me with the design already on it. This is my first time ever doing satin stitch.

 




Embroidered Collar

Project:  Collar

For:  Kára Báreksdóttir

Date:  Nov-Dec 2006

Stitch(es):  Stem

Materials:  DMC 6-strand cotton on cotton brocade ground

Inspiration:  design from the Mammen embroideries, colors chosen to compliment over-dress.

The fabric was provided to me by the seamstress creating the rest of Kára's step up garb.


Click "read more" below to see more pictures and an explanation of my process.